a walking tour by Carol Mendel
According to tradition, the name La Jolla (pronounced la-HOY-a) derives from a Spanish word of identical pronunciation, la joya, meaning "the jewel." According to research, the name La Jolla is a Spanish geographical term meaning "hollow, cavity, pit, or river bed," and was first applied here to refer to a Spanish rancheria in the hollow where La Jolla Bay cuts into the coastline. In one sense the claims of tradition are more accurate than those of research, for the town is indeed a jewel.
La Jolla occupies seven miles of curving coastline jutting out into the Pacific Ocean. Although officially a part of San Diego, it retains its own small-town atmosphere, its own civic pride, and its own La Jolla postmark. It is an elegant, exclusive shopping community, filled with boutiques, import shops, gourmet restaurants and stores that carry only the best. And it is a luxurious residential community, where beautiful homes, surrounded by lush subtropical plants, cover the hillsides overlooking the Pacific.
This walking tour, through the central area known as La Jolla Village, begins with the bluffs, coves, and rocky shoreline of La Jolla's spectacular, jagged coast. It then returns along Prospect Street, a paradise for elegant shopping, browsing, and dining.
Distance: One and half miles. Time: Allow one and a half to two hours for walking, plus plenty of extra time for stopping in shops and art galleries.
MAP of the walking tour
Follow the wide trail to the left, west, along the ridge of the bluff. The steep hillside is covered with sea-fig, a hardy groundcover native to South Africa. Commonly found along the Pacific Coast, it blooms in the spring with large, bright flowers. Watch the long swells of the Pacific Ocean glide toward the shore.
Among the trees is a wooden staircase leading down to a promontory with a viewing platform. Go down to the platform, and look back at the side of the bluff you have been walking along. Clearly visible on the sides of the bluff are sedimentary layers of rock and sandstone. Where the bluff meets the water, the surf has spent 200,000 years carving out caves.
It is a memorable experience to go inside one of these caves and look out from the inside. To do so, retrace your steps off the promontory and enter the Cave Store. Inside the store is the entrance to the 145 steps that lead down a lighted, man-made tunnel to the main chamber of Sunny Jim Cave. As you stand by the right-hand railing, looking out at the sky and ocean, the cave entrance will form the profile of a man with a pointed nose and a tuft of hair sticking up at the back of his head. This is "Sunny Jim," a cartoon character popular about a hundred years ago.
Two large red cottages, in a state of great disrepair, face the cove. They date from the turn of the 20th Century. The town of La Jolla was laid out and development began in 1887. By 1904 over 100 cottages had been built. A few still stand, although mostly they have been replaced by modern apartments and condominiums.
Beyond the beach of La Jolla Cove, the jutting piece of land is called Alligator Head. Almost a hundred years of pounding waves had made it look less and less like a resting 'gator than it once did, until a storm in 1977 finished the job by cutting the arch, severing the alligator's snout from the rest of his body.
Beyond the cove, take the walkway along the ocean. On your right the surf rolls in over the shallow, rocky sea bottom, and crashes against the shore.
The park on your left is Ellen Browning Scripps Park, named for one of La Jolla's greatest admirers and most lavish benefactors. Ellen Browning Scripps spent her life as a teacher and journalist before coming to La Jolla in 1895, at the age of 59. Two years later she built a home on Prospect Street and lived here until she died in 1932.
When you come out of the park, the monumental, 17-story, "939 Coast" condominium dominates your view. Totally out of proportion to the rest of the neighborhood, the building became the symbol of the fight between those who wanted La Jolla to retain its low-rise, low-density character, and those who wanted to replace the existing buildings with imposing high-rises. The uproar over the construction of this building in 1965 triggered a 50-foot height limitation on new construction.
Farther down the coast, a curved man-made jetty encloses a small cove and beach called the Children's Pool. Ellen Scripps gave it to La Jolla in 1931 so that children would have a safe place to play in the ocean. The area is also popular with harbor seals and, occasionally, sea lions. You can take the walkway out along the top of the breakwater. Hear the roar of the surf and feel the mist of the spray as the waves hit the jetty.
Continue down Coast Boulevard to Cuvier Street, where you turn left. Cuvier Street is named in honor of the French naturalist Baron Georges Cuvier, founder of the science of comparative anatomy. In turn-of-the-century San Diego, the prevailing system was to name streets alphabetically according to a theme, such as birds, trees, or famous people. Thus Cuvier Street is also "C", in a sequence of streets named for famous scientists. "A" and "B" have since been taken out of this sequence, but La Jolla has retained streets named for John Draper, American chemist and physiologist; James Eads, American engineer; Theodore Fay, American author; Charles Girard, Franco-American naturalist and zoologist; William Herschel, English astronomer, and either William Jenner or Edward Jenner, or both (no one seems to know anymore), English physicians. "I" Avenue, now called Ivanhoe, was originally named for Ictinus, who, in case it has slipped your mind, was the Greek architect who designed the Parthenon.
Walk left, north, on Prospect Street, and in a moment you will come to the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego. The museum contains permanent collections and special exhibitions of post-1950 art, which are displayed both here and at the museum's downtown San Diego location.
The building housing the art museum is a greatly remodeled form of a home built for Miss Scripps by architect Irving Gill. Gill built residences and public buildings in San Diego from the turn of the century until 1929, and has earned a national reputation for the simplified mission style he originated. Cross Prospect to see two excellent examples of this style -- the La Jolla Recreation Center and the La Jolla Woman's Club. Both were designed by Gill in 1914, and both were gifts from Miss Scripps. The style is one of extreme simplicity, and emphasizes plain walls, straight lines, and round arches.
Girard Avenue, the main street of commercial La Jolla, contains many fine shops, galleries, and financial institutions.
Cross Girard, and a few steps along Wall Street (yes, named for the one in New York City) will bring you to the entrance to the Athenaeum, a private music and arts library. The public is invited to use its collection of fine arts books, records, periodicals, sheet music, and scores in its reading rooms, but only members may check out materials.
Return to Girard Avenue, turn right, and turn right again when your reach Prospect Street. The next few blocks along Prospect, from Girard Avenue to Cave Street, are a shopper's and gourmet's delight. Both sides of the street are lined with art galleries and shops containing top-quality clothing, jewelry, and merchandise from all over the world. When your feet give out, you can stop for a snack or meal in one of Prospect's many foreign and domestic restaurants.
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Walking tours in this series:
Cabrillo National Monument
Downtown San Diego
Mission Bay Park
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